Dandelion And Burdock, Sowerby Bridge
THIS surprisingly chic veggie outpost gained an honourable mention when readers of the Observer Food Monthly voted for their best vegetarian restaurant.The winner was the much more chic Pied a Terre in Brighton.
Well, Brighton has its louche seafront, but Dandelion And Burdock overlooks the River Calder's rapids, where canoeists slalom through hoops and platoons of ducks tread water frantically. Oh, and there is dandelion and burdock on the drinks menu alongside some interesting beers.
Instead, from a small wine list we opted for an organic cabernet franc from Italy for £15 that was too sweet and soupy for my taste, as we scrutinised the equally concise food menu.
Freshness
I am often tempted by the vegetarian option in some of the better restaurants I get to visit, but rarely frequent eateries where flesh is verboten, so this was strangely exciting.
There was an awful lot of tofu loitering among the mains (here called big plates) and soya mince featured as the filling for Mexican black bean tacos, but the overriding impression was of salads and freshness, compositions rather than complicated cookery.
I suspect the kitchen in the basement is a one-man affair because, with the 40-cover restaurant hardly full early on a Friday evening, there were substantial gaps between courses (apologies were being given).
Tofu
The Green Lady accompanying me found her `small plate' of nori rolls containing cucumber and carrot bland despite the perk-up of wasabi, pickled ginger and tamari.
I liked the brazil nut dressing on a sparky salad accompanying my roast garlic white bean dip, but the walnut bread was a tad dry.
So on to tofu. GL's was of the spiced variety in a warm Indian-influenced salad that beautifully combined cashew nuts and roast chick peas with mango, spring onion, pepeprs, mushrooms, tomatoes and salad leaves - in a crunchy, fruity melange.
My two potato tofu hash was less successful - new potatoes and sweet potatoes and other assorted veg with an unassertive lemon tarragon sauce would have made a pleasant accompaniment, but there's a carnivore speaking.
Friendly
My blueberry almond tart came with some luscious vanilla custard, while the Key Lime cheesecake across the table was not as toothachingly sweet as this confection can be and I got to help mop up the chocolate sauce.
Vegetarians are true democrats. All sweets at Dandelion and Burdock were £4, starters £4.20 and mains £8.50, so the bill, even with the most expensive wine on the list, came in under £50.
Friendly service, cool dining space, healthy food with imaginative touches, it just lacked some clinching zing.
Dandelion And Burdock, 16 Town Hall Street, Sowerby Bridge (01422 316000, www.dandelionandburdock. uk.com)
Reviewed: Fri, 16 May, 2008
